Vegas, Baby!

My arrival in Las Vegas was greeted with cold and high winds. My car vibrated and swayed at night, like a ship at sea, and it was all I could do to get my stove lit to cook (I set it up inside the metal fire ring for a wind break). I didn't have a partner to climb with, and the weather wasn't inspiring me to climb anyway, so I spent a couple days sitting in the library working on my resume, and responding to calls and emails from recruiters who had contacted me since I put my information up on the web. On my third day there, I woke up to a miracle: sunshine and no wind! Then, as I was finishing up breakfast, Patsy, who I met in Joshua Tree walked up to my campsite. She was there with her friends and Outward Bound co-workers, Ashley and Mary. She said they were going cragging at a place called Panty Wall and I was welcome to join them. I was psyched to have good weather and people to climb with. Awesome!

We got a few climbs in, including a 5.9+/10a trad route called Panty Raid, that Ashley and I both led. It was mostly easier, but slightly pumpy, climbing, with a short crux near the top, then a slightly scary final mantle. I hung at the crux, mainly because I missed the key right foot.

At the crux on Panty Raid, missing the key right foot.

Ashley on Panty Prow

The following day, Patsy and Ashley dropped Mary off at a bus station early in the morning then went to climb Cat In The Hat, and I climbed with a guy named Sunny, who I met through Mountain Project. I had made plans to climb with him before I hooked up with Patsy and Ashley. We climbed Dark Shadows (first 4 pitches), which was a fantastic route, then rappelled down and climbed Cat In The Hat to the 4th belay and finished on a 5.10d bolted arete. Sunny was a good partner, but our personalities didn't really mesh, and when we got down in the dark after a total cluster of rappels with 10 people sharing the same ropes, I was a bit grumpy. Food and a couple beers while hanging out with Patsy and Ashley fixed that, though.

Unknown climber on 2nd pitch of Dark Shadows

The next day was Halloween, and Sunny had plans to go cragging with some friends, so I got off the hook without having to tell him I didn't really want to climb with him again, and went sport cragging with Patsy and Ashley, who were dressed for the occasion. I didn't have a costume, but they let me come along anyway. We went to the Black Corridor and did two climbs, then called it a day.

Ashley belaying on Halloween

Patsy climbing in costume

I went into town and hit up a thrift store for a Halloween costume, then hung out at the library for a little while before meeting up with Patsy and Ashley again. They ended up getting a room at the Tropicana, and I tagged along. We spent the evening wandering around the Strip, people watching. I wish I had pics of some of the great costumes, but I didn't feel like carrying my bulky camera around.

Sunday, Patsy and Ashley headed out for Joshua Tree, and I headed for Moab.

Route List for 10/29-31:

• Brief Encounter (5.8) (Pink-point)
• Panty Raid (5.9+/10a) (Led with a couple hangs)
• Unknown 5.10d (Possibly Totally Clips) (TR)
• Panty Prow (5.6? More like 5.2) (TR clean)
• Dark Shadows to 4th belay (3 pitches, 5.8, Trad) (followed 1 and 3 clean, onsight 2)
• Cat In The Hat to 4th belay (3 pitches, 5.6, Trad) (Onsight 1 and 2, followed 2 clean)
• Unknown 5.10d arete starting from 4th belay of Cat In The Hat (followed with one fall)
• Burros Might Fly (5.10b) (TR clean)
• Bonaire (5.9) (Onsight)
  

Last Day At Tahquitz And Death Valley

Wow, just when I was so proud of myself for keeping this current, I got super busy, and way behind. I've been working on getting my resume up to date, talking to recruiters, etc. So, I'm going to try to catch up a bit in small installments.

After my last post, Brett and I spent one more day climbing at Tahquitz. We decided to do The Long Climb (5.8), with the 5.8 direct start via The Wong Climb Pitch 1. The direct start first pitch was amazing. It was just a beautiful, long, splitter hand crack. I felt so solid on this pitch, it was incredible. I can scarcely remember when I've felt so good climbing a pitch. Brett wasn't feeling like leading, so I led all of the pitches, and I pretty much felt great the whole way...except perhaps for one point when I fumbled and dropped a cam. Then, I felt kind of stupid. Fortunately, it landed in a bush a short way down and I was able to lower down and get it, then finish the pitch. I just got to do a little bonus climbing. Generally, though, I had a "climbing should always feel like this" kind of "in the zone" feeling for the whole climb. In case you hadn't gathered, I enjoyed it. :-)

On the last pitch, instead of taking the standard finish on easy fifth class ramps to the right, I followed a 5.7 angling crack directly up, which was fine until the crack ran out and deposited me on a dirty slab with no protection. I was able to pick my way through it, though, to a small roof where I could get some gear, and then on to the top. Next time, I'll do the standard finish. :-)

Brett following on The Long Climb

Tahquitz from the base

The next day, I left Boojum, and got in touch with Alan Baldwin. He was on a road trip and headed for Death Valley which was more or less in the direction I was planning on heading, so we arranged to meet up. I drove to Red Rock Canyon State Park (in California, not to be confused with Red Rock Canyon near Las Vegas) and camped for the night with Alan, then the next day, we continued to Death Valley.

Alan at our campsite

Sunset over Red Rock Canyon State Park

Another Sunset Pic, with a Joshua Tree on the horizon

We arrived at Death Valley in the early afternoon, visited a great overlook and took some great pictures, which I somehow managed to lose, then drove on into the Valley, checked out the visitor center, and got a campsite. We spent the rest of the day checking out the "Devil's Golf Course" (crazy salt formations), Artist's Drive (lots of crazy-colored rock), and Bad Water (the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere).

The Devil's Golf Course - that's some rough!

Looking up at sea level...

Badwater: That's not ice; it's salt.

The following day, we drove out of the park and back in via Titus Canyon road, a long, one-way, dirt road, that's a bit rough in places. They recommend 4-wheel drive and high clearance, but it's really not that bad. The Subaru made it fine. The road passes an abandoned mine at Leadville, then, towards the end of the drive, as you near the valley floor, the canyon narrows to a slot canyon barely wider than the road. It was a nice drive, with some cool scenery.

The Subinator on Titus Canyon Road

The Leadville Mine

I just thought this was cute. :-)

After we got back into the valley, we drove up to "Scotty's Castle", a mansion built by some rich guy a long time ago. Obviously, I didn't pay for the $11 tour. Then, we checked out Ubehebe crater, a big hole in the ground with a great name, formed by explosive force when magma came into contact with underground water. Pretty impressive.

Scotty's Castle

Ubehebe Crater

The next day, I said goodbye to Alan and drove to Las Vegas. I got a campsite outside of town at the Red Rock Canyon campground and spent the next two days working on my resume and talking to recruiters. On the third day, I climbed. :-) More next time....

Route List for 10/23-28:

• The Long Climb Direct (First Pitch of Wong Climb, last pitch via 5.7 crack and dirty slab) (5 pitches, 5.8, Trad) (Onsight)

Out of J-Tree, on to Tahquitz

Wow, what's gotten into me? I'm actually keeping this blog fairly current! Crazy, eh?

So, Friday, after my last post, Patsy ended up heading back to the campsite with Brett and I. She was hoping to find a ride to San Francisco or LA, but it didn't work out. So, Saturday, the three of us set out to climb Dappled Mare, a 2 pitch 5.8 on Lost Horse Wall. The goal was to get an early start so it would still be in the shade (it is southwest facing). We didn't do too badly, and were probably climbing by 10 or so, but it was already coming into the sun. I think the the crux of the climb was getting off the ground, but the whole thing was enjoyable and worthwhile.

Brett on the cruxy start of Dappled Mare, with Patsy spotting

Brett nears the end of the first pitch of Dappled Mare

Patsy at the top of the second pitch of Dappled Mare

Brett and Patsy on top of Dappled Mare

After Dappled Mare, we headed over to Rock Garden Valley and got a few more climbs in.

Patsy tops out on Swiss Cheese (5.8), with Brett belaying

Sunday morning, I found Patsy a ride to LA, with Walker, who I climbed with the previous weekend. We went to Hemingway Buttress to meet up with him and his friend Zac, and Brett led Funky Dung (5.8), a fun route, with some funky, committing moves out a roof. I started to get on Overseer (5.9), but had second thoughts about the committing, unprotected moves at the start and backed off. We got Patsy's stuff transferred into Walker's car (he was leaving early to get back to LA), and said goodbye (again) to Patsy, then hooked up with some co-workers of Brett, Marion, Katie, and Jackie, and went out to Atlantis Wall. Brett and I got a couple leads in, then we hooked up with another group that had some top-ropes up, and got on their ropes. The climbs at Atlantis are short, but fun.

Brett TR's Wet Pigeon (5.8), while Katie TR's the unknown 5.7 to the right

Brett and Jackie pose in front of an amazing Joshua Tree sunset

Sunday evening, Brett and I met Katie, Jackie, Chase, and some other Boojum Institute employees at Pappy and Harriet's, a fun little bar/restaurant in Pioneer Town. It was nice to hang out, drink beers at a bar and see a band. I hadn't done that since seeing the Saps with Melissa back in June....

Monday, Brett and I took our time getting up and about, packed up camp, headed into town to take care of some town stuff, then drove down to Idyllwild. Tuesday, we climbed a route called Sahara Terror (5.7) at Tahquitz. The route featured lots of fun, easy, overhung climbing, a cool, but dirty left facing corner, that probably wasn't exactly quite on route, and a great steep corner with a beautiful splitter crack and great edges for feet. The real beauty of this route was that it looked so improbable, yet climbed so easy.

Approaching Tahquitz

Looking down the first pitch of Sahara Terror

Brett a cheval on the start of the second pitch of Sahara Terror

Brett on the dirty, but fun corner to the right of what was probably supposed to be the second pitch of Sahara Terror (note the cool looking roofs through which the third pitch ascends)

On top of Tahquitz Rock

I would like to take this moment to endorse Cerveza Caguama, product of El Salvador and my new favorite cheap beer. I'll have to take plenty of this with me when I leave So Cal. Now back to your regularly scheduled blog.....

<rant>The main problem I have with Tahquitz, so far, is that I have yet to find a place to camp that doesn't want your first born child in payment. Come on, people, $20/night is freaking ridiculous for a CAMPSITE. OK, maybe if we were talking about RV hookups, and free showers, that would be fine. I want a few square feet of ground to park my car on and a place to cook my meals (a picnic table would be great, but I'll take a rock, or a flat-ish bit of ground). A toilet or outhouse is probably good, to reduce impact, but I can live without it. It really aggravates me when those of us who require little and leave little impact are expected to pay the same as those who expect five star accommodations and think someone should clean up after them. </rant>

So, Tuesday night, we drove about 45 minutes to the headquarters of Boojum Institute in Anza, Ca, who Brett works for, and crashed there.

Wednesday, we drove back to Tahquitz, and climbed Coffin Nail (5.8) to Traitor Horn (5.8). Wow. What else can I say, but, "wow". This was two absolutely amazing pitches of climbing. I think the first pitch of Traitor Horn may be the single coolest pitch I have ever led. I was incredibly disappointed that Brett didn't have a camera with him when I reached this perch, but was very grateful for the rest.

Brett on Coffin Nail

Brett pulling the roof at the top of Coffin Nail

After getting down, we still had lots of daylight to burn, so we climbed Left Ski Track, a classic 5.6. This was a great, casual climb. Most of the way, if you didn't have your hand on a great jug and/or your foot on a huge hold, you were doing something wrong...yet, it was steep and exposed, and you were grateful for those beautiful big holds.

Brett climbing jugs on the first pitch of Left Ski Track

Brett at the top of the first pitch of Left Ski Track

Brett leading the second pitch of Left Ski Track, just before the "classic step-around"

Once I get this blog posted, my task for the day is to start making some progress on my resume. Yep, that's right. It's getting close to time for the vagabond climber to settle back down into a real job for a while. Never fear, though, there are plenty of adventures left to be had before that happens. :-)

Brett and I are planning to climb one more day at Tahquitz, tomorrow. Saturday, I will hit the road again...but where to is yet to be determined. I may try to catch up with Alan at Death Valley, or I may head on to Las Vegas, and Red Rock Canyon. Whatever works out, you'll read about it in the next edition.

Route list for 10/17-21:

• Dappled Mare (2 pitches, 5.8 Trad) (Followed pitch 1, onsight pitch 2)
• Swiss Cheese (5.8, Mixed) (TR clean)
• Smithereens (5.8, Trad) (Onsight)
• Lewd and Lascivious Conduct (5.10c) (TR)
• Funky Dung (5.8 Trad) (TR clean)
• Wet Pigeon (5.8 Trad) (Onsight)
• Vorpal Sword (5.8 Trad) (TR clean)
• Unknown 5.7 (Trad) (Onsight)
• Grain Surplus (5.8) (TR clean)
• Galumphing (5.10a/b) (TR clean)
• Sahara Terror (5 pitches, 5.7, Trad) (Onsight 1,3, 5; Followed clean 2,4)
• Coffin Nail (5.8, Trad) (Followed clean) to Traitor Horn (2 pitches, 5.8, trad) (onsight 1, followed clean 2)
• Left Ski Track (3 pitches, 5.6, Trad) (Onsight 1,3; Followed clean 2)
  

Joshua Tree Part 2

Monday morning, I was considering taking a rest day, but Kara, who I'd met on Saturday, came by as I was finishing up breakfast, so I decided to do a few climbs with her. We decided to go to The Real Hidden Valley, warm up on some easy stuff and then, maybe do Sail Away (5.8). So, we got on a 5.6 called Leaping Leaner, thinking it would be casual. I started up a crack that appeared to be the obvious start to the route, got one good piece in and started to move above it. Outside of the finger slot where I placed my gear, the crack was shallow and flaring. With a long reach, I got to a halfway decent handhold, and started working my feet up in the flaring crack. I need to get to a stance with my feet on the afore-mentioned handhold before I would get gear again. With my feet maybe a foot above my gear, my foot slipped and I fell. For a second I was just kind of sliding down the rock, but had no way to stop myself. I wondered if my gear would catch me before I hit the ground. As the ground approached, I felt the rope go tight. My feet hit the ground. I felt a slight twinge in one ankle. I had hit the ground, but only with rope stretch...the rope had taken the brunt of the energy out of the fall. I became aware of Kara and saw that she had been yanked forward and scraped her shin. She almost definitely saved me from a sprained ankle, or worse, though. It was the first time she'd ever caught a lead fall.

After further consideration, I cleaned my gear, and down-climbed. I started further left, kind of chimneying up behind a boulder, then traversed back right into the climb. Even without the sketchy start, the climb felt awfully hard for 5.6. Later, I looked it up on Mountain Project, and the consensus grade is 5.7+, with a note that, if you start on the right (as I did initially), it has “ankle busting potential at 5.8+”. It was not quite the mellow warm-up I was looking for.

After that, we, somewhat apprehensively, got on a 5.7 called Jumping Jehosephat. It was distinctly easier than Leaping Leaner. At that point, we decided it was cold and a cup of hot chocolate (perhaps with a shot of peppermint schnapps) sounded nice.

Leaping Leaner (The 5.6 that isn't) on the right, Jumping Jehosephat on the left

Tuesday, Brett, who I had also met on Saturday, and another girl, Patsy, joined Kara and I in our campsite. Brett and Kara went into town to do some shopping and such, and Patsy I went to Hemingway Buttress to do some climbing.

White Lightning (5.7)

Dung Fu (5.7)

We had awesome chicken fajitas for dinner. Unfortunately, I woke up in the night to a severely deflated air mattress. I aired it back up, but it quickly deflated again, and I ended up sleeping (poorly) on the hard, lumpy floor of my car. Perhaps the added weight from all the fajitas I ate was too much for it. I don't know. I got up early, since I was uncomfortable, and couldn't really sleep anyway. I eventually found the hole, and made an attempt at patching it, then decided to take a rest day, get a shower, and generally relax. Brett, Kara, and Patsy went to climb Hands Off, a climb you can see from our campsite which seems to always have people on it.

Brett on Hands Off (5.8), as viewed from our campsite

That night, the mattress leaked more slowly...with one re-inflation, I was able to keep it reasonably comfortable. In the morning, I made one more attempt at patching it.

Thursday, we decided to go to Lost Horse Wall and do some multi-pitch climbs. We started out on The Swift, a pleasant 5.7. The book has it as three pitches, but we climbed it easily in two.

Kara following the first pitch of The Swift

Kara at the first pitch belay on The Swift

Brett leading the second pitch of The Swift, while Patsy belays

After we all got down from the walk-off, it was blazing hot in the sun, and we decided to seek some shade. We headed for Dairy Queen Wall, got two more climbs in, hiked out in the dark, and headed back to camp.

This morning, Kara and Patsy headed out. Brett is going to hang out and climb with me through the weekend, then we are going to head down to Tahquitz and do some climbing down there.

I gave up on my air mattress today and bought a new one. I'm not sure if my patch is still failing, or if there is another hole. Either way, I didn't want to screw with it any more, when I could just spend $20 and get a new mattress.

Route List for 10/12-16:

• Leaping Leaner (“5.6” Trad) (Fell on one start, onsight with alternate start)
• Jumping Jehosephat (5.7 Trad) (Onsight)
• White Lightning (5.7 Trad) (Onsight)
• Dung Fu (5.7 Trad) (TR clean)
• Feltonian Physics (5.8 Trad) (Onsight)
• The Swift (2 pitches, 5.7 Trad) (Onsight)
• Frosty Cone (5.7 Trad) (Onsight)
• Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7 Trad) (TR Clean)

Moving On: From Yosemite to J-Tree

After Shaun and Ben headed out last Sunday, I took Monday off, and did a lot of laying around in the sun and reading. Tuesday, I hooked up with Hannah, who I had climbed with once before and we climbed the regular route up Higher Cathedral Spire. The route is 5 pitches long, with three 5.9 pitches (all pretty short cruxes), is a lot of fun, and reaches a really fantastic summit, with amazing views. My camp-mates, Dominic and Evelyn were just ahead of us on the climb.

Dominic on the third pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire

Hannah on 4^th pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire

Looking down on Hannah at the 4^th pitch belay of Higher Cathedral Spire

Hannah and Me on top of Higher Cathedral Spire, El Cap in the background

El Cap from the top of Higher Cathedral Spire

After the climb, Hannah and I cashed in the free dinner I won in the Yosemite Facelift raffle. The steaks were amazingly delicious...perfectly cooked and deliciously tender. Maybe I should have taken pictures of my dinner. :-) All in all, it was a great finish to a fabulous day.

Wednesday, I packed up my stuff and, by about 1:00, was on the road again. I drove to Bakersfield, CA, where I stopped to do laundry, stock up on supplies and "camp" in the Wal-Mart parking lot. Thursday, I drove the rest of the way into Joshua Tree National Park, and got a campsite at the Hidden Valley campground. I met a guy named Kevin who had a site a few down from mine, who I ended up climbing with the next day.

Welcome to Joshua Tree National Park - View from my campsite

Kevin, his friend Jose, and I went out to Echo Rock (a short distance from Hidden Valley), and I led Stichter Quits a.k.a. Black Tide (5.7), a nice, somewhat run-out (4 bolts in about 100') slab climb. It was fun...slightly heady, but fun. About the time we got down, Kevin's friend, Dave, showed up. Dave led several harder climbs, and I top-roped a couple of them. The highlight was Heart and Sole (5.10b). This was a super fun climb.

Heart and Sole goes up the slab under the roof, around the roof on the right, then back left above the roof and up the flake. Super cool route!

We headed back to the campground for a bit, then Kevin, Dave and I did a couple more routes, Papa Woolsey (5.10b) and Double Cross ("5.7+"). Papa Woolsey is a tricky face climb...slick rock and small edges. Double Cross is a beautiful hand crack with a tricky start that feels more like a solid 5.8.

Me on Double Cross (“5.7+”)

Friday night, Kevin headed home and Dave's family and some other friends of his and their families came in. I hung out with them some in the evening. They were cool folks. I ended up sharing my campsite with a guy named Isak who is in the area doing outdoor education work. Another guy, Walker, came by, and I made plans to climb with him on Saturday.

Saturday morning, I was late showing up to climb with Walker, so he ended up heading out with another friend of his who he had run into to climb. Meanwhile, Isak's friend who he was supposed to climb with didn't show up, so I ended up climbing with him. Funny how things work out. :-) We did a few routes in the campground area, waiting to see if his friend would show up. Eventually, she did, along with four other outdoor ed people. The lot of us went out to Rock Garden Valley, got a few climbs in, and saw a lovely sunset.

On top of Intersection Rock

Sunset from the top of Young Lust (5.8+) in Rock Garden Valley

Today, I climbed with Walker and we got four excellent routes in before he headed back to LA.

Route List for 10/6-11:

• Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route (5 pitches, 5.9, Trad) (Led pitches 1 and 5, hung on pitch 2)
• Stichter Quits (a.k.a. Black Tide) (5.7) (onsight)
• Heart and Sole (5.10b) (TR)
• Falcon and The Snowman (5.10d) (TR)
• Papa Woolsie (5.10b) (TR)
• Double Cross ("5.7+", Trad) (TR clean)
• Toe Jam (5.7, Trad) (Onsight)
• Overhang Bypass (5.7, Trad) (TR clean)
• Upper Right Ski Track (5.3, Trad) (Onsight)
• Double Dog Leg (5.7, Trad) (TR clean)
• Young Lust (5.8+, Trad) (Onsight)
• Pope's Crack (5.9, Trad) (TR clean)
• Bambi Meets Godzilla (5.8+, Trad) (Onsight)
• Effigy Too (5.10 a/b, Trad) (TR clean)
• The Flue (5.8, Trad) (Onsight)