There's No Place Like Home

Well, I'm finally home, and it didn't even require ruby slippers...just a lot of driving. :-)

I had a nice visit with my step-mom, Carla, and her daughter and son-in-law, Julane and Chris, and their family, in Vernon, TX, then left the Wednesday before Thanksgiving to drive to Sam's Throne, near Mt. Judea, AR.

I arrived at The Throne between 9 and 10 Wednesday night to see a fire burning at the large campsite our group has always claimed for the Thanksgiving festivities. This concerned me, because, to the best of my knowledge, nobody from our group was supposed to be there yet. I walked over to the fire to find out what was up and met two brothers from Fayetteville, Ben and Ted. After ascertaining that I didn't have a gun, and probably wasn't significantly crazier than average, they invited me to join them at their fire, so I pulled up my cooler of beer and did so. They were on a week's trip traveling and climbing (mostly sport and bouldering) and stopped at the Throne (where they had never been before) to try a boulder problem called King Lion (Vreally hard). They asked if I was there to trad climb and if I had a rack. When I said I was and did, they asked if I'd like to climb with them. I hadn't expected to get any climbing in on Thursday, so this sounded like a great plan to me. Hanging out by the fire drinking lots of beer and whiskey also sounded like a great plan.

Thursday, we woke up late (possibly on account of the beer and whiskey plan), and took our time getting around. Ben and Ted broke out a bottle of champagne and made mimosas, a Thanksgiving tradition in their family. Who am I to say no to a family tradition? :-) Eventually, around 11, we made it out of camp, and went to find King Lion. I didn't try it, but it looked really freaking hard. After the guys had had their fill of working on the boulder problem, we headed over to The Throne (I know, I've been calling the whole area "The Throne", but, for confusion's sake, there is a smaller area at "Sam's Throne" called "The Throne"... Don't blame me. I didn't make up the names) to do a couple of moderate trad climbs. Neither been nor Ted had a lot of trad experience, but they wanted to lead, so I let them use my gear. Both did well, and their gear looked solid. After a couple climbs (Poison Ivy and Boston Rag), we called it a day. I made dinner and got a fire going, and Ben and Ted headed out. A couple hours later, the St. Louis crew started showing up.

Friday, I climbed with Stacey, Rachael, Sarah, Nate, and Rachael and Nate's brother, whose name is escaping me at the moment (sorry!). One of my goals for the weekend was to lead Razorback Roof (5.9+), and I got the opportunity Friday. I ended up taking a couple takes under the roof, because I was reluctant to commit to the moves up to the good horn. Once I did commit, though, it really wasn't that hard. I'm certain I can red-point it on my next attempt.

After Razorback, I decided to try to lead a "5.8+" next to it called On The Take. It was steep, but looked juggy, and like you could get good rests higher up. The route had a pumpy and committing start, and tricky route-finding. I climbed to where I could get a stance and get some gear in, and then spent a good while trying to figure out how to move past that point. I hung on my gear for a while, and eventually lowered off. We put a top-rope on the route, and it was hard! Nate and his brother took a line to the right of the stance where I had placed gear and the climbing seemed slightly easier, but you would have had to climb higher to get your first piece and wouldn't get as good of a stance to place it from. When I top-roped it, I climbed to the left of my previous stance, and had to pull 5.10 moves on slopey holds. However you slice it, the route felt a lot harder than 8+ to me, and featured some questionable rock...definitely not a classic, but, that said, it was pretty fun.

Saturday, I climbed with Stacey, Bev, Jen, and Clayton, in the Outback area. I led a couple of moderate trad climbs, and Clayton led some bolted 5.10's. I continued my trend of the last few weeks of moving kind of slowly and not being super-motivated, but had a good time on some fun climbs, and just enjoyed being back amongst old friends. I knocked off a little bit early to get back to camp and start working on my stuffing for the evening's feast.

Bev on Silverfish (5.8+), below the first crux

Bev relaxing above the first crux, with Stacey belaying and Jen looking on

Dinner was delicious, as usual; the turkey was incredible; the wine flowed copiously; and I had a fantastic time. What can be better than great climbing, great food, and great friends? Oh yeah! This year, we had amazing weather too!

Sunday morning, we packed up camp, and most of the crew headed out to get breakfast at a diner and make for home. A few hardy souls, however, braved the overcast skies to get in a few more climbs. John, Bev, Becky, and I, despite some threatening sprinkles, headed down to the Throne for a few more routes. The rain held off and we were able to get our last climbing fix.

After a couple climbs, I headed out and made the drive back to St. Louis. I've come full circle at last, and am back home, cuddling with my cat, wondering what the future holds and when and where the next adventure will be. I'm ready for a break, but certain that it won't last TOO long. :-)

Sorry about the shortage of photos in this post. I was a lazy photographer.

Route list for 11/25-29:

• Poison Ivy (5.7, trad) (red-point)
• Boston Rag (5.7, trad) (red-point)
• Razorback Roof (5.9+, trad) (Led with 2 takes, Top-roped clean)
• Fat City (5.7, trad) (TR clean)
• On The Take ("5.8+" a.k.a. 5.10, trad) (TR clean)
• Where's Tom? (5.7, trad) (red-point)
• Silverfish (5.8+, trad) (red-point)
• The Four Feathers (5.10a) (TR clean)
• Pentecost (5.10a) (TR clean)
• Patio Direct (5.9+, trad) (TR clean)
• Albino Rhino (5.7, trad) (TR clean)