Thursday, October 22, 2009

Out of J-Tree, on to Tahquitz

Wow, what's gotten into me? I'm actually keeping this blog fairly current! Crazy, eh?

So, Friday, after my last post, Patsy ended up heading back to the campsite with Brett and I. She was hoping to find a ride to San Francisco or LA, but it didn't work out. So, Saturday, the three of us set out to climb Dappled Mare, a 2 pitch 5.8 on Lost Horse Wall. The goal was to get an early start so it would still be in the shade (it is southwest facing). We didn't do too badly, and were probably climbing by 10 or so, but it was already coming into the sun. I think the the crux of the climb was getting off the ground, but the whole thing was enjoyable and worthwhile.

Brett on the cruxy start of Dappled Mare, with Patsy spotting

Brett nears the end of the first pitch of Dappled Mare

Patsy at the top of the second pitch of Dappled Mare

Brett and Patsy on top of Dappled Mare

After Dappled Mare, we headed over to Rock Garden Valley and got a few more climbs in.

Patsy tops out on Swiss Cheese (5.8), with Brett belaying

Sunday morning, I found Patsy a ride to LA, with Walker, who I climbed with the previous weekend. We went to Hemingway Buttress to meet up with him and his friend Zac, and Brett led Funky Dung (5.8), a fun route, with some funky, committing moves out a roof. I started to get on Overseer (5.9), but had second thoughts about the committing, unprotected moves at the start and backed off. We got Patsy's stuff transferred into Walker's car (he was leaving early to get back to LA), and said goodbye (again) to Patsy, then hooked up with some co-workers of Brett, Marion, Katie, and Jackie, and went out to Atlantis Wall. Brett and I got a couple leads in, then we hooked up with another group that had some top-ropes up, and got on their ropes. The climbs at Atlantis are short, but fun.

Brett TR's Wet Pigeon (5.8), while Katie TR's the unknown 5.7 to the right

Brett and Jackie pose in front of an amazing Joshua Tree sunset

Sunday evening, Brett and I met Katie, Jackie, Chase, and some other Boojum Institute employees at Pappy and Harriet's, a fun little bar/restaurant in Pioneer Town. It was nice to hang out, drink beers at a bar and see a band. I hadn't done that since seeing the Saps with Melissa back in June....

Monday, Brett and I took our time getting up and about, packed up camp, headed into town to take care of some town stuff, then drove down to Idyllwild. Tuesday, we climbed a route called Sahara Terror (5.7) at Tahquitz. The route featured lots of fun, easy, overhung climbing, a cool, but dirty left facing corner, that probably wasn't exactly quite on route, and a great steep corner with a beautiful splitter crack and great edges for feet. The real beauty of this route was that it looked so improbable, yet climbed so easy.

Approaching Tahquitz

Looking down the first pitch of Sahara Terror

Brett a cheval on the start of the second pitch of Sahara Terror

Brett on the dirty, but fun corner to the right of what was probably supposed to be the second pitch of Sahara Terror (note the cool looking roofs through which the third pitch ascends)

On top of Tahquitz Rock

I would like to take this moment to endorse Cerveza Caguama, product of El Salvador and my new favorite cheap beer. I'll have to take plenty of this with me when I leave So Cal. Now back to your regularly scheduled blog.....

<rant>The main problem I have with Tahquitz, so far, is that I have yet to find a place to camp that doesn't want your first born child in payment. Come on, people, $20/night is freaking ridiculous for a CAMPSITE. OK, maybe if we were talking about RV hookups, and free showers, that would be fine. I want a few square feet of ground to park my car on and a place to cook my meals (a picnic table would be great, but I'll take a rock, or a flat-ish bit of ground). A toilet or outhouse is probably good, to reduce impact, but I can live without it. It really aggravates me when those of us who require little and leave little impact are expected to pay the same as those who expect five star accommodations and think someone should clean up after them. </rant>

So, Tuesday night, we drove about 45 minutes to the headquarters of Boojum Institute in Anza, Ca, who Brett works for, and crashed there.

Wednesday, we drove back to Tahquitz, and climbed Coffin Nail (5.8) to Traitor Horn (5.8). Wow. What else can I say, but, "wow". This was two absolutely amazing pitches of climbing. I think the first pitch of Traitor Horn may be the single coolest pitch I have ever led. I was incredibly disappointed that Brett didn't have a camera with him when I reached this perch, but was very grateful for the rest.

Brett on Coffin Nail

Brett pulling the roof at the top of Coffin Nail

After getting down, we still had lots of daylight to burn, so we climbed Left Ski Track, a classic 5.6. This was a great, casual climb. Most of the way, if you didn't have your hand on a great jug and/or your foot on a huge hold, you were doing something wrong...yet, it was steep and exposed, and you were grateful for those beautiful big holds.

Brett climbing jugs on the first pitch of Left Ski Track

Brett at the top of the first pitch of Left Ski Track

Brett leading the second pitch of Left Ski Track, just before the "classic step-around"

Once I get this blog posted, my task for the day is to start making some progress on my resume. Yep, that's right. It's getting close to time for the vagabond climber to settle back down into a real job for a while. Never fear, though, there are plenty of adventures left to be had before that happens. :-)

Brett and I are planning to climb one more day at Tahquitz, tomorrow. Saturday, I will hit the road again...but where to is yet to be determined. I may try to catch up with Alan at Death Valley, or I may head on to Las Vegas, and Red Rock Canyon. Whatever works out, you'll read about it in the next edition.

Route list for 10/17-21:
  • Dappled Mare (2 pitches, 5.8 Trad) (Followed pitch 1, onsight pitch 2)
  • Swiss Cheese (5.8, Mixed) (TR clean)
  • Smithereens (5.8, Trad) (Onsight)
  • Lewd and Lascivious Conduct (5.10c) (TR)
  • Funky Dung (5.8 Trad) (TR clean)
  • Wet Pigeon (5.8 Trad) (Onsight)
  • Vorpal Sword (5.8 Trad) (TR clean)
  • Unknown 5.7 (Trad) (Onsight)
  • Grain Surplus (5.8) (TR clean)
  • Galumphing (5.10a/b) (TR clean)
  • Sahara Terror (5 pitches, 5.7, Trad) (Onsight 1,3, 5; Followed clean 2,4)
  • Coffin Nail (5.8, Trad) (Followed clean) to Traitor Horn (2 pitches, 5.8, trad) (onsight 1, followed clean 2)
  • Left Ski Track (3 pitches, 5.6, Trad) (Onsight 1,3; Followed clean 2)




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