Car Trouble, Visiting Aunt Jan, and Sporting It Up At Rumney

Tuesday, I left New Paltz, heading for Grantham, New Hampshire, where my Aunt Janet lives with her husband, Dean. I was about 16 miles south of Albany, New York, when steam started billowing out from under my hood. Uh Oh. That can't be good. I popped the hood to have a look, and, naturally, the coolant container was empty. I had a large jug of water with me and thought I could fill it up from that to get me somewhere where I could get more anti-freeze, so I lifted the lid on the coolant container. This lid was connected via a rubber tube to the neck on the top of the radiator. When I lifted the lid, the tube pulled with it the neck of the radiator. It was completely detached. Definitely not good. So, I called my auto club (second time on the trip...) and got a tow truck dispatched. A couple hours later I was sitting at a repair shop in Albany waiting for my radiator to be replaced. Much to my surprise, two hours after that I was pulling out of the repair shop and hitting the road again! Many thanks to Better World Club and the guys at Mig Auto Repair in Albany! You all rock!

About 5:30, I rolled into Grantham and met my Aunt to head back to her house. I got a shower, and we went out for dinner, and generally had a super nice evening. Unfortunately, Dean was out of the country, so I didn't get to see him (I think I've met him once), but Janet is awesome and it was fantastic to get a chance to hang out with her!
Me with Janet behind her and Dean's house.

Wednesday morning, I drove about 40 miles from Janet and Dean's to Rumney for a day of sport climbing. I had made contact with Jason online and arranged to meet him there for the day. We had a great day, getting 9 routes in. Rumney is a fun place to climb. The routes range from short to long and easy to insanely hard. The rock is sheist, and is absolutely fascinating. In many places, it has a "grain" to it and looks almost like wood. In one place, it looked almost as if you were climbign tree bark. I really wish I'd gotten some good close-up pictures of the rock, but I kept getting busy climbing and forgetting about it.... Oh well.

Jason at the base of Scene of the Crime, 5.10a, a short route with a pumpy start to easier climbing above.

The Green Mile, 5.9, and interesting slab route, following the crack system.

Obi-Wan Ryobi, 5.9. This was a committing and pumpy route. Very fun! To the left, you can see the base of Yoda, also 5.9. Both of these routes were pretty awesome.

Jason leading up Lonesome Dove (5.10a). This is a really great, technical, thin, crimpy route following the rounded arete. An awesome way to end the day!

Wednesday night, I drove back to Janet and Dean's to spend the night again. I'm hanging out at there house now, taking adavantage of the wi-fi. :-) When I finish up here, I will head out toward North Conway, where I plan to climb at Cathedral Ledge and Whitehorse Ledge. Jan, who I climbed with last Saturday in the Gunks is driving up Friday night and is going to climb with me over Memorial Day Weekend. So, that should be a good time!

Route List for 5/20/2009

• Anchovy Caper (5.8) (Redpoint)
• Metamorphosis (5.8) (Onsight)
• The Green Mile (5.9) (Led with one take)
• Scene of the Crime (5.10a) (Led with one take)
• Yoda (5.9) (Onsight)
• Obi-Wan Ryobi (Onsight)
• The Beginning of All Things (5.10a) (Redpoint)
• Things I Never Learned (5.9) (Onsight)
• Lonesome Dove (5.10a) (Led with one fall/take)