Leaving The New

Monday, I thought about trying to climb, since the good weather only seemed destined to last through Tuesday, but I was just worn out. I got up late, and definitely felt drained from all of the hiking and sun of the last few days...and the climbing, too, I suppose, but mainly the hiking and sun, I think.

Tuesday, I felt more energetic, and got up early to go look for someone to climb with...which didn't help much. I ended up going to Kaymoor and hiking down the Butcher's Branch trail, because there were a couple of cars in the lot there. I hooked up with Lewis, Lori, and Don, from Chattanooga and top-roped two routes with them. After that, they decided to head out to drive to the Red. I guess that was all they could take of me. :-)

We also watched another climber soloing one of the routes we wanted to get on, but he was moving slowly, and we didn't want to try to climb past him.

Sammy the Snake on Flight of the Gumbies (5.9). He's only 3 feet long, but he can hold onto things I could never even dream of. Snakes were something of a recurring theme at The New.

Tuesday night, the rain came. Wednesday morning, I woke up with it sprinkling off and on...not a serious rain, but enough to make you wonder if it was going to do something more. So, I went and did laundry. When I got done with laundry, it was starting to look like it might be clearing up, so I called Matt to see if he wanted to try to climb. He was doing laundry, too, but said he'd love to give it a shot when he was done. So, I did some quick shopping, then we met up and headed out to Beauty Mountain. The rock looked mostly dry, and when we found the routes I wanted to do, the sun was shining, and the routes were in great condition. Awesome!

The line up the center of the photo is Journey to the Center of the Brain (5.7). The top looks low-angle and juggy. Don't be fooled. It's steeper than it looks, and most of those things that look like jugs are slopey. It's tricky climbing, with wierd gear up there.

Matt spotting the Invisible Man. OK, actually, he was pulling the rope.

The line to the left of the arete is Brain Wave (hardest 5.7 ever). This climb is steep. The holds are mostly big, but it is still pumpy, and then you get to a section that makes you say "WTF? How is this 5.7?" Well, at least that's what I said. When you find the secret hold around the arete and combine it with the right footwork, the move isn't bad, but it is committing as hell.

I've got a little Captain in me at the base of Journey to the Center of the Brain. :-) I thought I was going to sit down up there for a photo, but it didn't seem like such a good idea when I got up there.

Thursday, I got up and drove to Seneca Rocks.


This is the view from "town" (there's a climbing shop, a coffee shop, a couple general stores and a couple guide services...and that's about it).

I got in a little after noon, and went for a nice hike to the top of the cliff. I forgot my camera, though, so no pictures from the hike.

Today, it rained in the morning, but cleared up in the afternoon, and I got out with a guy named Mike and got five pitches in. Sweet! Again, I forgot my camera though. I'll bring it next time, I promise.

Route List for 4/28-5/1

• The Green Piece (5.10b) (TR)
• Sancho Belige (5.11 b/c) (TR flail)
• Journey to the Center of the Brain (5.7 trad) (Onsight)
• Brain Wave (5.7 trad) (Led with a couple takes in the same blasted spot)
• Block Party (5.8 trad) (TR clean)
• Ambush (5.11a trad) (TR)
• Electric Chair (5.9 mixed) (TR clean)
• Judgement Seat (5.10a trad) (TR)
• Disco Death March (5.10b trad) (TR)